Kochi Far Away from the Madding Crowd
What if you could experience 3 majorly different landscapes all in the same prefecture?
Of the four prefectures on the island of Shikoku, best known for its long 88 temple pilgrimage, Kochi may well take the cake for sheer diversity (and tranquility) in one region. You could take a morning swim in Kuroshio, followed by rafting/kayaking along the Shimanto River, before heading up to the karsts for an evening above the clouds in the Tengu Highlands.
Purify your soul in the Shimanto River Valley : Japan’s Best Kept Secret
Perhaps one of Kochi’s greatest natural claims to fame, the Shimanto is the last pure free-flowing river in Japan. Thanks to the clean water and valley views it is a popular spot with local kayakers and rafters, as well as cyclists who zip the 196km length, while occasionally crossing the cute, stout chinkabashi (submersible bridges). If you want to try river activities, contact Goodriver.
| withRiver https://www.withriver.info/english/ |
While many Kochiites take to the riverside camping spots on warm weekends, but there are also plenty of ryokan inns offering local foods, such as family-run Anjuan, which is also vegetarian and vegan-friendly. If you love the great outdoors but want a few extra creature comforts, glamping under the stars at Yamamizuki might be just the ticket.
If you prefer to avoid driving, this is a great spot for an overnight trip, as it takes under 2 hours by regular express trains from the capital of Kochi City to reach Nakamura, conveniently located toward the estuary of the river.
Beach days and whales in Kuroshio
One of the gems of this coastal area of Kochi is 4km-long Irino Beach, so pretty that it is considered a “natural art museum.” Besides swimmers and sun-worshippers, around sunset, this beach attracts photographers, as the tide transforms the beach into a mirror of the sky. If you are lucky you may catch the yearly t-shirt art exhibition when hundreds of artistic creations flutter in the sea breeze.
From April to mid-October the coast is home to pods of Bryde’s whales, and there are regular boat tours to watch the majestic creatures play and raise their young (Ogata whale watching). For those who prefer to remain on firm ground, you can try your hand at salt-making with the friendly owner of Saltybe. Book a farm-stay at nearby Kajika, where you can join in picking seasonal vegetables, foraging, gathering eggs, and then enjoy lovingly prepared “farm cuisine.”
| Ogata whale watching https://nitarikujira.com/reservation-in-english/ |
Head above the clouds to Yusuhara and the Shikoku Karsts
Kochi has highest percent of forested land in Japan (84%) and up in the mountains the peace and soothing green are most apparent. People make the journey to Yusuhara to check out 6 architectural marvels by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, including one where you can stay the night, Yusuhara Machi no Eki.
| Yusuhara Machi no Eki http://www.town.yusuhara.kochi.jp/kanko/kuma-kengo/eng/town-station.html |
The “library above the clouds” is particularly beautiful, and nearby Coffee Flag serves a great cup of joe. Outdoorsy folks can follow in the footsteps of local hero Ryoma Sakamoto, trekking the Dappan no Michi, the route the former samurai used to escape his native domain.
| Dappan no Michi, http://www.town.yusuhara.kochi.jp/kanko/dappan/ |
To really get on top of the world, continue up to the nearby Shikoku Karsts, right on the border with Ehime prefecture. Stay at a lodge high on the Tengu Highlands and watch the sunset and clear starry skies from over 1000 meters up… while sipping brews from one of Kochi’s 18 sake breweries.
| Shikoku Karsts https://kuma-kanko.com/spot-en/spot398/ |
While the sea-to-mountains route above shows plenty different sides of Kochi, there is actually even more to discover:
Tea and washi along the Niyodo River
Kochi has a bit of a monopoly on surreally pretty rivers, as the Niyodo River is said to have the best quality water in Japan, so clear and blue that the color has been called “Niyodo Blue.”
Kayaking, canyoning, and rafting are popular pursuits, and many nature lovers make their way to the Nakatsu Gorge to see the waterfalls and walk along mossy trails crisscrossed with little red bridges. Nearby are the Choja Tanada terraced rice fields, where over 100 paddies are arranged in steps up the sides of the valley, a tradition preserved for over 400 years.
| Nakatsu Gorge https://visitkochijapan.com/en/see-and-do/10014 |
| Choja Tanada terraced rice fields https://niyodoblue.jp/en/?lang=en |
Ikegawa, the top tea-producing area in Kochi, is also a short drive away. Grab a table at Ikegawachaen Kobo Café, run by tea farmers, and try the lushly green tea-flavored Chabatake parfait while overlooking the rounded tea bushes and Niyodo River below.
| Ikegawachaen Kobo Café http://ikegawachaen.jp/shop/ |
Spend the night at QRAUD, an interesting combination of hotel and workshops overlooking the river, where you can try your hand at washi papermaking.
| Tosa Washi Craft Village QRAUD https://visitkochijapan.com/en/activities/10157 |
Flowers and fruit in Umaji and Kitagawa
Step back in time in the tiny village of Umaji, nicknamed “yuzu village” for their abundant production of Kochi’s most famous citrus fruit. Time moves slowly here, and visitors will definitely get a taste of the Japan of yore. Stock up on fresh bread from the photogenic local bakery, then check out the bijou Forest Railway and remains of the Yuzu Road, which used to cart the bright yellow citrus to market.
After exploring the yuzu orchards and playing in the cool river, slip into the hot springs at Umaji Onsen and finish the day with a glass of refreshing yuzu juice.
| Umaji Onsen http://umaji.gr.jp/ |
Kochi has deep connections to flora, and the splendid gardens of Monet’s Garden Marmottan in nearby Kitagawa bring the artist’s paintings to life, making this area well-worth a side trip from Kochi City, as the gardens are just a quick bus ride from Nahari Station.
| Monet’s Garden Marmottan https://www.kjmonet.jp/english/ |
Looking for something really unusual? The gloriously retro Ashizuri Underwater Observation Tower
Observation Tower in Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park looks like the lair of an ocean-loving James Bond villain and is a great spot to join a glass boat cruise to see the sea life and protected coastline.
| Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park https://www.env.go.jp/en/nature/nps/park/ashizuri/index.html |
“Getting to Kochi“
There are regular domestic flights between Kochi Ryoma Airport and major hubs like Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, and Fukuoka.
For those who prefer taking the scenic route, the Nanpu express train on the Dosan Line runs between Okayama Station and Kochi Station, continuing on to Nakamura (the main station for accessing the Shimanto River) and all the way to Sukumo, a popular beach area.
The Dosan line also connects Kochi to nearby Kagawa and Tokushima prefecture, and there are regular buses from Kochi Station to Matsuyama, the main city of Ehime Prefecture.
Intrigued and want to start planning your escape to one of Japan’s best-kept secrets? Be sure to check out:
